19th Dec 2011, Sasqavia Guest House
We woke up late. 10am, and neither of us had bothered with the alarm. We took brunch, a hearty Soup Saudara and Soup Konrod, before making our way by ojek (7k Rp) to the Bastiong ferry terminal. The ferry terminal is actually where the big ferry leaves from. For more frequent departures, ask for the sirpet harbour, from which 16 seater speedboats leave (8k rp).
Ah Tidore. If we thought Ternate was laid back, Tidore is even more so. We disembarked at Rum, and took the bemo (9k Rp) to the main town, Soasio, on the other side of the island. I thought that the bemo terminal would be in the middle of the town centre, like it was back in Ternate (where it was at the market). But here, the terminal sits in a quiet uninviting area.
The view from atop the Spanish fort ruins, Benteng Tohula
We flagged one of those funky carrier ojeks (they look like mini-tractors with scoops), and made for the Spanish fort, Benteng Tohula. While Ternate made pacts with the Dutch, the Tidore folks allied with the Spanish. Located on top of a cliff, the undergrowth covered ruins from the 17th century is now someone’s farm. The owner cultivates chilli plants along the fort walls!
From there, we went down to the Tidore Sultan’s keraton, almost an exact replica (but with blue roof) of the Ternate palace. Beyond that, and up the hill was another Spanish fort. Tidore’s peak was nearer and thus more grand-looking from this fort. Or perhaps it was because the peak was not covered in mist.
Then it was the 40 minute bemo ride back to the jetty. We had durian, authentic meaty Maluku durians at the docks, before making our way back to Ternate.
Dinner was in Kota Ternate, at an open air collection of warungs, near the Swering promenade. Tomorrow, we will attempt to get to Halmahera, the huge K-shaped land mass that overlooks both Ternate and Tidore.