Pai – Cycling Out to Nowhere

Pai is a quaint little backpacker town 4 hours away from Chiang Mai.  For a period of time, travelers, backpackers and the like would visit the town, intending to spend a couple of days there, but staying a lot longer. Now that the town has an airport which flies to and from Chiang Mai daily since ’07, the tourist crowd would probably descend on to the place, making it lose much of its charm.


Pai -13 Sep’05
Woke up early next morning. Realised the Kaye guy is one of the guesthouse owner’s boyfriend (blah). Rented a bicycle. Early 8 am, went out to do a 10km bike ride out into the country to see Tapai hot springs. Did it in 1 over hour, up and down hilly roads. Dammnit, next time I have to learn to ride a motorbike. Anyone else wants to learn when i get back home pls send tell! Killer bicycle ride, up and down slopes. Reached the hotsprings half dead. Still have return trip…

Interlude : Things I have learnt
1) Just say “Kap” if u dont understand anything anyone says.
2) 7 eleven is the best thing to happen to backpackers everywhere.
3) You can tell a town is big is there is a 7-eleven.

Reached the hotsprings. The one good thing about travelling without itenary is that you get to places when the tourist crowd hasnt reached. It was totally empty. Either that or it was really low season (after floods and all that) that no tourists travel around the region. Well, I was the ONLY person in the entire park, went up to the source of the hot spring, this pool where hot water bubbled out at the top of the stream. HOT water (see pic, 80C, hoho.)

So there I was taking pics, then sat down to eat packet breakfast of fried chicken and sticky rice, then these 5 guys came up the slope into view. One look can tell : Singaporeans! Hahaham, amazing, one empty park and who should come along, 2 old retired? Singaporean couples and their Thai guide!!

Chatted with them abit, Florence, Alice and their husbands (lost their names). Their big adventure, took a chartered van from Mae Hong Son to tour then place, paying guide and all that. I think I saved a bomb cycling there. Met more farmers and villagers along the way too… So took some photos with them, then cycled back. Took twice the time to reach back, cos had to push bike up slope now. Kaoz.


By the way, here’s a related link to the hot springs – http://allaboutpai.com/hotsprings/

Pai – Exploring the town

Pai is a quaint little backpacker town 4 hours away from Chiang Mai.  For a period of time, travelers, backpackers and the like would visit the town, intending to spend a couple of days there, but staying a lot longer. Now that the town has an airport which flies to and from Chiang Mai daily since ’07, the tourist crowd would probably descend on to the place, making it lose much of its charm.


Pai – 12Sep’05
Decided to shower, then look around town a bit. People here from everywhere, lots of angmohs ‘farangs’ who somehow know each other. Yeah been here that long. Lots of hill tribe colourfully dressed women, thai army guys, thai locals, muslims in headdresses. Practically a mish mash of people. Dreadlocked hippy types, families, you name it, you have it.

Buildings. Lots of guesthouse, residential are thatched huts, businesses offering Hill Tribe treks, elephant rides, bungee jumps, ATVs, river bamboo rafting. Then you have the local shops, selling groceries. Tribe women selling handicraft, the english bed and breakfast joint, the german bar, a jazz cafe (open mic nite that day). Mish mash. One 7-eleven. But very peaceful. No wonder, these people stay here.

Oh yeah, place was flooded just last month. Quite badly, lots of the guesthouses across the river (the Aframe huts) all washed away. Looks pretty bad. Some areas still not recovered, like bridge not fixed.

Evening market. About 5 oclock till 7, the entire main road (yeah that ONE) gets cordoned off and stallowners roll the wares. Frog legs, chicken, fruits, veges.

Dinner time, late dinner at this Muslimhome selling pita and bread. I thought I had it tough looking for food : There was this Jewish couple who kept asking me questions whether the meat and the vege is separated during cooking. Plus which direction the sun rises from. Tough man…

Night time, sleep.

Pai

Pai is a quaint little backpacker town 4 hours away from Chiang Mai.  For a period of time, travelers, backpackers and the like would visit the town, intending to spend a couple of days there, but staying a lot longer. Now that the town has an airport which flies to and from Chiang Mai daily since ’07, the tourist crowd would probably descend on to the place, making it lose much of its charm.


Pai – 12Sep’05
Day 2. Took a Tuktuk down to Arcade bus station, to catch the local 9am aircon bus to Pai. 4 hour bus ride (longer, it drizzled again like last night), up and down winding mountain slopes. Pai is located in a valley.

Bus occupants, 4 backpackers from Germany, touring Asia. Some hill tribe women. Some locals. And the fella sitting beside me: Israeli guy, bicycle parked on top of coach, been in ChiangMai past year, has a place at the bottom of mountain just on outskirts of ChiangMai. Today he is off to Pai to learn from his “Body Worker” Thai master, meditation and breathing techniques. That kind of new age thing.

Chatted with the Germans a bit. Made up mind to better learn more phrases than Sawadikap and Kwap Phon Kap to survive next few days…

Stopped after 2.5 hours. Break. Toilet. Relieve motion sickness. Too winding, the roads. Reached Pai about 3 or so. Israeli seatmate Ryan recommended Good Life guesthouse, so off i go to search for it.

First time on Pai street, walked down the main street. Map says turn left and junction. I walked on and passed by REALLY tiny road. Nah, can’t be that on the map. Went on. Realised after 15 minutes I walked 200 metres ahead where i shouldnt. This town is tiny…Found Good Life guesthouse, looks like a converted local house. 2 floor 3 rooms for guests. There’s me, later that night met Kaye, German guy who just bought a 2nd hand motorbike and rode from Chiang Mai. Plus Paul, English guy who lives here!

Chiang Mai


Chiang Mai is cool. The old city area is worth many hours of walking about just to check out the night markets.
Chiang Mai – 11Sep’05

So here I am. Doing the getting lost by myself thing again. Destination : Pai, Thailand. Sunday afternoon, Tiger Airways. To Chiangmai. One week. Sounds good? Yeah. Just to chill and do nothing…

Waiting at the ‘port, got myself a copy of Lonely Planet, Northern Thailand edition. Sweet. Very useful too. Intial itenary was to go take a coach ride from Chiang Mai to Pai, and hang there. But after going through the guidebook, decided to do full Mae Hong Son circuit, which basically covers entire Mae Hong Son region.

Reached Chiang Mai Int Airport. Took a “Taximeter” to town. No idea where to stay, cabbie said Downtown? Heck yeah, downtown, making mental note to pick up more Thai from that Lonely Planet guide. Sooo, the driver took me straight to Downtown Inn. Which fortunately was in a prime location near the night market. Convenient. 800B. Ouch.

Spend the rest of the night exploring the night market. Didn’t buy anything. Prob will on the way back.