The 38th Parallel: A view from South Korea

21 Jun-11

The Korean Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) is the line on the 38th parallel bisecting the North and South Korea. The line came about after the Korean War, when an armistice was signed to cease hostilities, in the process creating a 4km wide exclusion zone.

I visited the southern side of the DMZ, on a day tour. Imjingak is the visitor’s centre for tourists eager to experience a bit of the border.

Imjingak Unification Sculpture DMZ

 

This is the Memorial Altar. Every Chu’sok Day, north koreans in the south will visit the altar and pray for the reunification. The 7 granite screens represent the 5 northern provinces and 2 more in North Korea.

Memorial Altar

 

In Imjingak, there is also the remains of a locomotive train abandoned in the DMZ during the Korean war. Bulletholes and bent wheels can be seen on the train.

Remains of Train Rail line from Dorasan to Kaesong

 

A view of the Bridge of Freedom which crosses the Imjin River and leads into Panmunjom. Special permission is required to head into Panmumjom. Wire fences line the grounds, with

Bridge of Freedom Bridge of Freedom Wire Fence Barrier

 

Flags are put up by visitors wishing for unification, and a prayer for souls of ancestors to the North.

Flags of remembrance More flags of remembrance

 

These curious little stone guards stand on either side of the bridge. A couple more stand outside the 3rd Aggression Tunnels.

Female guard Male guard Outside the Tunnel Area

 

Found on the South Korean side so far are entrances to 4 tunnels. These tunnel leads from North to South Korea. I went to the 3rd Infiltration Tunnel. No photos allowed inside, but here is one of the tunnel plan. When found, the North said that these were coal mining tunnels, but no evidence of coal had been found. Instead the walls had been painted black and made to resemble coal.

Plan of Third Tunnel of Aggression

 

Next up, we took the bus to Dorasan observatory. From here, you can look through binoculars to North Korea in the distance. No photos allowed beyond the yellow line. Try and the guards will tick you off, and were heard to even delete the offending shots.

Dorasan observatory Dorasan observatory 2 Dorasan observatory

 

The Dorasan station is the last station before you go into North Korea. The line currently stops at Dorasan, and perhaps in the future, will continue on to Kaesong, and then Pyongyang. Should the line open, the railway will stretch from South Korea all the way to Europe.

Dorasan station Dorasan station 2 Dorasan station 3 Dorasan station 4 Dorasan station 6 Dorasan station 7

 

And out on the track. The sign says “Not the last station of the South, but the first station towards the North.”

Dorasan station 5 A guard looks on. Out on the tracks Out on the tracks 2 Out on the tracks 3 Trans Eurasian Railway Network

 

A souvenir to bring home, stamped tickets.

Train ticket back Train ticket front

For a even close-up view of North Korea, there are tours right up to Panmunjeom, right up on the demarcation line between North and South Korea. This is the JSA (joint security area) where you can see North Korean soldiers striking tough poses across the line.

Hanguk D-4: Of Ancient Silla Kings

17 May,2011, Gyeongju, Korea

From Jeju to Gyeongju in a Day

So far, it’s been a flash travelling blitz across Korea. From Seoul to Jeju in 3 days, and today Day 4 I am headed for Busan and then to Gyeongju. Here’s the plan: Take a bus from Seogwipo up to Jeju City. Look for the next available flight out to Busan. Take a bus out from Busan Airport to Gyeongju. When in Gyeongju, hunt for a place to stay. Spontaneous travel.

A couple taking a stroll into through the burial mounds.

The first part was easy enough. I found the tourist bus pick-up point which led straight to Jeju City airport. The fantastic thing about travelling in Korea is that the transport network is fantastic. Every place is connected and buses leave frequently. At the airport, I found a Jeju Air flight at 1pm headed for Busan. Booked the ticket. Don’t try getting a ticket off the counter during peak season though.

Jeju Air – cheap and convenient

The flight was short, and on reaching Busan, I thought to myself. ‘How convenient was it that there was a bus terminal just outside the airport with destinations to all the nearby cities.’ Took lunch and my 4pm bus ticket. The bus left for Gyeongju and took an hour to reach the city. Objective for today met. In summary, it is perfectly possible to hit Gyeongju from Jeju in a day, with plenty of time to spare. (considering that I wasn’t rushing from point to point – I set off late in the morning and even missed the earlier Busan to Gyeongju bus because I was ogling this hot Korean babe at the airport.)

Silla

Once upon a time (57 BCE-935 CE actually), the Korea that we know today existed as 3 separate kingdoms. The Silla kingdom, and its two rivals the Goguryeo and Baekje kingdoms. Then one day the a particularly belligerent Silla king made a decision to annex the other two, and in the process, unified the three under the Silla flag. They ruled for almost 900 years from their capital in Gyeongju, until they were conquered by the Goryeo Dynasty. In a nutshell, that was the history of Silla.

Hanjin Hostel. A homely place to spend the night. You can even buy homemade calligraphy poems here.

What was more exciting was that I’m now in Gyeongju, the seat of the Silla kings for hundreds of years. I got a room at the Hanjin Hostel, barely a hundred meters off the bus station. Chucked my bag and off I headed towards the city’s attractions, clearly printed out on the handwritten map given out free by the Hanjin Hostel guy. Gyeongju has been named the museum without walls, and I was starting to understand why.

I peeked into a roadside taekwondo dojo.

Tumuli

It was evening when I reached the Tumuli Park. These mounds ahead of me are barrows, burial tombs of ancient Silla kings. In the middle of downtown Gyeongju are the Noeseo-Ri tombs and the huge tree-covered Bonghwangdae tomb. There were locals picnicking here, schoolchildren walking through, and boy playing baseball even. How odd, that these thousand year old tombs are so much a part of the locals everyday life. Further down I passed through the Tumuli Park, with yet more tumuli. There was even one, Cheonmachong (Heavenly Horse Tomb) which had been excavated and one could enter via a short tunnel into the burial chamber. Somehow, I was the only foreign traveller around the park, which was mostly empty anyway.

Neoseo-Ri Tombs

An evening game of catch.

In meditation under a tumulus

The excavated tomb entrance of the Cheonmachong.

A tumulus, covered by bamboo

The sun setting over a Silla royal tomb

Anapji

Next, I strolled to the Cheomseongdae Observatory, which, built around 600 CE, is probably one of the oldest observatories around. Past more of those peculiar low rise buildings and shops. I realised I had already walked halfway across town, and dusk was approaching. Anapji Pond is just ahead, across the main road, so I decided to do that as well, and worry about finding my way back later.

The two cute mascots of Gyeongju

Cheomseongdae

Flower garden en route to Anapji

Serendipitously, Anapji was a sight to behold at night. It waslighted, and all the missing tourists I could not find in town earlier starting dropping off at entrance carpark by the busloads. Anapji Pond is an artificial pond built by one of the Silla kings, King Munmu (his tumulus is on a rock in the sea!) in Gyeongju National Park. It is very much a tourist attraction, having been spruced up nicely.

So that’s where everyone is!

Looking over the Anapji pond

Exhibits from the Silla empire are displayed here

 

That was enough activity for one day, I thought to myself. I flagged a bus back to town, and grabbed dinner, some instant noodles at 7-Eleven and that was Gyeongju in a (half)day.

Hanguk D-3: Jeju-Do and Don’ts

16 May,2011, Seogwipo, Korea

Today I’m in Seogwipo, the main town in the southern half of Jeju Island. Did a walk along the main streets to the harbour area. Checked out some restaurants. Most here had signs proclaiming ‘authentic seafood caught by haenyos’, those famous diving grandmas of Jeju. I myself was looking to dive as well. I searched for the building housing one of the English speaking dive outfits here, BigBlue33. I met Ralf, the owner at BigBlue33 but they were not going out that day. It is always a hit and miss affair when you do a walk-in, and alone at that. No worries, we had a chat, he was nice and directed me towards a couple of Korean run dive shops. But it seemed like there were no other leisure divers going out to sea that day. I would recommend trying to dive though, read that it was pretty decent – Diving? Do!

In late morning, I decided to be a tourist. The Jungmun Tourist Complex, just a twenty minute bus ride west of Seogwipo, is for the tourist. Many five star hotels (check out some of the hotels in Jeju), attractions, restaurants and an extraordinary number of museums. There’s the famous Loveland, Teddy Bear Museum, a Ripley’s Believe It Or Not! and several other really random attractions that makes you go “WTF has this got to do with anything?“ I decided to while away my time at the Jeju Museum of African Art. The building itself is a replica of the Grand Mosque of Djenne in Mali, West Africa. It’s a realistic representation too, check out those ‘torons’ sticking out of the walls. The building houses images, masked, and carvings from Africa, and there was also an animal section. It was OK, actually I just wanted a glimpse of the building. The real thing in Mali is on my bucket list! – Museums? Generally Don’t!

The it was the Cheonjeyeon area. Cheonjeyeon Falls is one of three waterfalls of Jeju. From Jongmun, you could see the forested valley below, and the three tiered waterfalls. Apparently, Cheonjeyeon was the Pond of the Emperor of Heaven, and seven nymphs regularly bathe in the waters. There is a huge arched bridge, Seonimgyo Bridge, which crosses over the valley. This bridge has the same seven nymphs carved on the side. I sensed a theme of ‘in harmony with nature’ throughout. – Waterfalls? Do!

Back in Seogwipo, I walked the town center for a bit before settling for dinner. The South Korean’s preoccupation with healthy living can be seen here. Besides all the Olle hiking trails, natural parks, the food here had calorie count on their labels. Check out these ice-cream labels. – Healthy Living? Do!

Next up, From Jeju to Gyeongju.