6th Dec, 2000hrs, 7Heaven, Dahab Did not do much at all. The most exciting thing i did today was to try and bargain for a tshirt that i didn’t buy. In the early part of the day, woke up and took a walk north up the coast. Never did have the chance to do that during the last couple days. Took in the early morning sea breeze. In the afternoon, ate a good meal at Napolean’s just outside, for a second time we got a “30% discount”. But the food was good, for 25 EGP, we get hummus for starters, rice and meat, plus desert and drinks. 930Pm, bade farewell to the crew at 7Heaven. They all seem to be linked. The 7Heaven Hotel, the Dives Down Under outfit, the Internet shop beside it, the tour agency near the exit and the Seven Heaven Chinese Restaurant. Off I go back to Cairo. Busy few days coming up.
The bus from Dahab is 90 EGP (plus the hotel does transfers to the bus station for 10 EGP extra, and you need it cos it is quite far away) but it drops you at Abbassiya station in Cairo, which is in the middle of nowhere for travellers. Ask to drop at the city center (downtown).
Finally, here’s a video of Siwa town by dusk that I managed to upload.
This is a quick entry before I take the 8pm bus out from Siwa to Cairo (60 EGP, 4 other buses run daily to Alex via Matrouh). Today morning at 7am went to the rooftop, which gives an excellent view of the town; it is one of the highest around the town centre. Caught the sunrise, came down before I became a frozen lollipop. The most obvious thing to go towards was the shali, a 13th century fortress. Walked around town trying to find the entrance. Got in and summited, but at the wrong summit of the fort. Still the view was great. Came back to town, had a turkish cofee. Then around 11am, found Eba who had gone out on a rented bicycle. I rented one myself (10 EGP) and we went towards the local sights. No map, but i managed to take a photo of the area at the tourist office. Unfortunately, got our bearings wrong. Instead, we just keep cycling south until we reached the edge of the desert. Everywhere in front of us were dunes. So, at 12pm, we sat down at the edge of the desert, took off our sandals / slippers and talked / exchanged travel tales. It sounds crazy, but the weather was hot, dry yet cool. Left after about 45 minutes. My lips are chafed.
After that, went back, caught the 3 sights we intended to see before we got lost (Cleopatra’s Bath, Umm Ubeyda temple ruins, Temple of the Oracle) before cycling back into town. I decided to leave tonight for Cairo at the 8pm bus, to get an extra day. Changed plans a bit, will go straight to Dahab instead after a night in Cairo. This is because Cairo is where I’m supposed to do all the visa admin stuff. So reaching there on the weekend (fri and sat is the weekend here) is a bad idea. I’ll see how it goes, will probably find a place to chuck my bag before going embassy hunting.
Eba’s headed to Alex then Port Said. Gonna bid farewell to him later. His bus leaves at 10pm. Nice guy. I really got tons of info from him about Cairo, Luxor, Aswan etc.
As nua as I am tonight, I’d better write this before I go to bed. I am in Siwah oasis, located near the western end of Egypt, a nine hour bus ride from Alex. At the El Maukaf El Gedid station (which is in Moharrem Bey area, and replaces the existing one at the15th of May bus station (LP not updated). Buses depart to Siwah (West and Middle Delta Bus Co, 35 EGP, 9 hrs) at 8.30am, 11am, 2pm and 10pm.
Out of Alexandria, the terrain changes dramatically. We go east along the shoreline, so on one wide I can see the Mediterranean, on the other side, desert. After a halfway point stop at Marsa Matrouh, we go inland and its all desert. The locals are different too, the local berber population in the distinct garb are more obvious the further we go towards Siwah. There was one interesting stop, at Cafe Choop Amoo Said (sic). It is located by the roadside, a single building in the middle of nowhere. I looked around, beside the cofee shop, our bus, an outhouse and a surau, there was nothing else out there, just desert. Took some fantastic shots, and off we go.
Reached Siwa in the evening, about 1730hrs. Saw more and more trees as we approached. Everything is sand brown; the buildings, the sand, more sand, the fort, and more sand. The main highlight of the place is the 13th century fort (shali) setting itself as the background of the main square of the town. The entire place feels so laid back. Donkey carts with “Taxi 4×4. Welcome to Siwa” written, desert trekking and tour companies, cheap eateries (Abdoo’s is great). Adding Siwah to my list of places to just chill and watch the world go, (right now that list includes Pai and Vang Vieng, pre-commercialisation). There’s quite a bit of independent tourists around. Met an Eba at my hotel (the hotel is basic, clean and 20 EGP!) He’s Japanese and a frequent solo traveler. Egypt is his last leg having come from Turkey, Syria, Lebanon and Israel. I’ll probably do one of those packages with him tomorrow provided I can find him. After dinner together i forgot to ask for his room, no way to contact him now.
I’m going to wake up early to catch the sunrise on the lovely rooftop. Night.
