Day 4 – Of Kayak & tubes.

Vang Vieng is another Pai like backpacker paradise located between Vientiane and Luang Prabhang. Recently however it is also becoming very touristy with “eco-adventure” companies setting up. Check out the countryside for the scenery, caves and other natural sights.


Day 4- 17Jun08. Eco trekking. For 90000 kip per pax it was a really good deal . The group that day were the two lao guides, a korean young couple, a pair of korean ladies (one with socks and sandals) and one english guy. First off we went on the kayak downriver. This was the open top banana boat type kayak .the river itself was grade 1 or 2, probably 2 because i managed to somehow capsize as soon as we start. First stop was Elephant Cave nothing much to see here. We trekked in for a further 10 minutes before reaching the tubing cave . Now this bit’s probably one of the highlights so far. I had to get on one of those tubings like yesterday except instead of downstream we had to enter a water cave. headlamps on pulling on a rope, it was pretty neat. Some parts of the cave the ceiling was like 15 cm above my head. A claustrophobic’s nightmare. Then far in. We got off the tube there was land and we crawled on all fours. No photos here of course. ceiling became higher up twice more before we were stopped by high water level which meant we couldn’t go further unless we swim. Not a good idea when you are inside an underground cave. So we sat around a bit. Wiped mud on faces for luck. And switched off our lamps to see how utterly dark it is. not too long though. That’s when the water snakes come in. Umm ok…

Muddy muddy

 Ninjas vs pirates. Ninjas will win.

Had lunch there, with a baguette and fried rice courtesy of our guides and the local bbq cooking squad stationed there. While eating, I fed pieces of baguettes to the animals there. Played “ducks and chickens” to see who gets to the baguettes first. Ducks won hands down. Cos 1. They can go in water. 2. Ducks swallow their bread whole. While chickens hold bread pieces in their mouth and fight each other for them . 3. Ducks are cuter.

Vid of the previous group coming out of the cave. I was the idiotic voice asking “Was it good?” Hah
Next was further downstream along the Nam Song. Managed to capsize once more before we made a stop at one of the many establishments along the banks. We were the only ones there. But then. They switch on the speakers to max , played mr tambourine man and some bob marley. Woohoo! Instant happening pit stop. people tubing downstream were beckoned and pulled ashore in for some music and friendly lao beer. stuff to do there: pool (with a really bad conditioned table), slingshot (i hit the empty coke can once), a flying fox like swing thing where you drop into the water (which I didn’t have the balls to try). Instead I played a team game of petanque. With two ang moh guys. We had no idea how its played till this other chap came along and taught us the rules. Here’s how it goes. We formed two teams and mine won. We were down 7-4 and came back to win 7-10. By this time the two korean aunties were getting pretty bored so we set off home.
Two capsizes and still da bomb.
Dinner was at this place where the menu at the front was in lao cos kris wanted an authentic experience. Which was rubbish cos there’s probably more tourists than locals in the central two road stretch. Anyway the “authentic” menu inside had english breakfast and fries. Go figure. After dinner tried to get online in one of the cafes but the interwebz suck. Kris went off for massage 2 while I chilled for a bit and tried the lao coffee at one of the open air eateries. More shops showing friends and family guy. started to rain so we found shelter at another joint where kris finally had his laobeer. Me? I gorged myself sick on those pancake crepe things that go for 10000 kip sold every street corner by push cart vendors. Banana chocolate egg pancake with condensed milk topping. Really bad idea. That’s about all.
Next up: Luang Prabhang, Monks, 15 hr bus rides

Day 3 – Vang Vieng

Vang Vieng is another Pai like backpacker paradise located between Vientiane and Luang Prabhang. Recently however it is also becoming very touristy with “eco-adventure” companies setting up. Check out the countryside for the scenery, caves and other natural sights.


Laos – 16Jun’09
As I’m writing this, it is day 5 on the 6 hour van ride to luang prabhang. Certainly more leg room compared to…
Day 3. We set off to vang vieng early morning on a sardine packed van and I got the short end of the straw : the crap seat with engine under my feet hence absolutely no leg room for 4 hours.
Man these limestone rock structures are nice. Climber’s paradise. Scenery’s fantastic but the damn road winds up and down the valley incessantly. The only breaks were the infrequent stops as we wait for herds of cows to get off the road.
Reached vang vieng, here’s a vid of the town area.

Had Phad Lao for lunch before going tubing down the river. Just sit inside tube at let the river carry you shiok! Except when I ran into stray branches after drifting too near to the bank. Dinner was at nokeo restaurant, where I went Mythbuster and found out just how sticky lao sticky rice is. Conclusion: very sticky. Like spiderman sticky, sticks to my plastic bag held at 90 degrees. Later that night went for a traditionally lao massage. pretty mild but still came out feeling stretched. Less acrobatics than thai and certainly less painful than the chinese sinsehs.

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Day 2 – Sabaidee Laos

Sala Kae Koo is a park with gigantic concrete structures with Buddhist and Hindu influences. There is a similar park on the Laos side of the border, but the sculptor and his followers fled into Thailand after Laos’ political unrest during that time and created this second park. 


Nong Khai is a simple little border town. Head towards the shops along the riverfront and the indoor market where you have hardware stores, general wares shops.


Vientiane, even though it is the capital of Laos, retains its charm. French architectural buildings and signs line the streets. The highlight is the Patuxay which is a miniature Arc de Trompe. This unfinished monument is found in the middle of a park, where the locals relax and have picnics.The park itself is in the middle of a roundabout. The entire city is clean, and you even have joggers in the evening.

Vientiane – 15Jun’08
Woke up late by half hour. Still managed to take the 11 baht per pax 56 km train ride to Nong Khai, the border town between Laos and Thailand. Tuk tuk driver didn’t understand where we wanted to go. Here in Udon Thani, fewer tourists, so signs are all in Thai, and locals don’t speak english too well. Neways, after a hand gesture mimicking a constipated train and a “chugga-chugga-chugga” he got us to the railway. Reached Nong Kai at 9+. While everyone else made a beeline for the Friendship bridge, we went to this sculpture attraction on the outskirts of Nong Khai. Sala Kaew Koo, tall stone statues (25m high!) of Hindu and Buddhist influence. Went back to town, dropped at the Tha Sadet day market, which is a mish mash stretch of stalls that the locals frequent right by the Mekong. Had lunch before crossing into Laos via the Friendship bridge, and off to Vientiane.

Vientiane has more tourists, besides the angmoh backpacker types, also had groups of asian tourists who’s origin countries i cant place. Could be Thai, dind’t sound Chinese, dunno where theyre from. After dunking our stuff at this 50 000 kip joint (basic amenities, staying here tonight, SHOULD have picked somewhere nicer), went down to the Patuxay Arch, which is a bit like the Arc de Triumph in France. This Vientiane version is unfinished, and the immediate area around it made into a park. But for 3000 kip, we climbed to the top and got an birds eye view of the city. Oh yeah, before Patuxay, visited the local day market, walked around, bought some “hey ive been to lao!” type t-shirts. Dinner was at this indian food place, Nazim or something. Pretty ok, but ex. But then again, Vientiane is the capital and a tourist hub, compared to the quiet Udon Thani.

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These posts sound kinda sucky, without the pics and vids to back them up. Tomorrow will be off to Vang Vieng, where the supposed highlight is tubing down the Mekong. cheers.

Udon Thani – A dinner of grasshopper fish

Udon Thani is a town on the northeast of Thailand, near the Laos border. Not too busy, with a nice central market beside a food center selling local fare. Mainly as the launch point into Laos as well as the Ban Chiang UNESCO archaelogical dig site about 47km east of Udon Thani.


Udon Thani – 14Jun’08
Greetings. This is Red reporting from Vientiane. 10pm here and I am on day 2. The travel buddy Kris is off to get a food massage leaving me here internet shop. Pictures are missing cos this PC can’t read my htc touch, no windows m sync installed.

DAY 1 –
Singapore to Bangkok. This bit is as boring as it sounds. Transit and sat around stuffing selves at Suvarnabhumi ‘port. Then was Bangkok to Udon Thani airport. Reached at 5pm in evening. Udon Thani’s a quite little Thai town with minimal tourists running around. They normally head straight to Vientiane from the Udon Thani airport. Walked around (and around) with our gigantic backpacks before settling on a nice Mono Mansion guesthouse/hotel. Went out to the night market area for dinner. Looked around at the shops a bit. The food shops had lots of stuff I can’t eat. Pork sausages, pork balls. pork everything. And lots of stuff I wont eat. Like fried bugs, fried larva….Settled on this fish thats a lot of the shops put on display. BBQed and coated with what looks like salt. Ordered 1 (like 100 baht only) and was halfway through when Kris said theres a grasshopper stuffed into the belly of the fish…
Hokay. I retched.
Much panic later, and after poking at the fish (not me, I didn’t want anything to do with the fish by then), realised that the “grasshopper” was actually a tightly folded bunch of leaves (looks like lemongrass without the smell) and stuffed into the fish belly to give it taste. Gah.



Doi Ithanon and back home

Doi Ithanon at 2565 meters is the highest point in Thailand. It is an accessible drive up to the summit.


Doi Ithanon – 17Sep’05
Early morning went up to the summit, we were the first few.  The summit was a stretched raised wooden boardwalk meandering through the vegetation. In the morning mist, it was quite serene and exquisite. Then met up with the couple again at the twin Thai Chedis. The tourists were starting to appear around the area. Explored the chedis, including the flower garden around them. Finally left with the very nice couple who drove me back all the way to Chiang Mai. Thanked them lots, for without them i would probably be stranded halfway up the mountain.


Can’t quite recall whether I left for SG on that day itself or stayed one more night. End of Chiang Mai. =)

Doi Ithanon

Doi Ithanon at 2565 meters is the highest point in Thailand. It is an accessible drive up to the summit.


Doi Ithanon – 16Sep’05
Reached Chiang Mai in the afternoon around 1pm and got a room near the Tapae gate. I asked around and decided that I could make my way to the foot of Doi Ithanon using a public songthaew before taking the transport up the summit. The idea was to have a quick visit, catch the sunset and be back in Chiang Mai by dusk. 

Best laid plans, but I upon getting off the songthaew, I found out that the transport up stopped for the day. around 4pm i think. So i was stranded halfway up the mountain. I waited to flag some public transport and sat at the roadside stall. Fortunately a nice young Thai couple from Bangkok offered to drive me up (one of them works at Unilever) where there are basic huts and a resort to stay overnight. Now my bag is still back in Chiang Mai and I have nothing on me but my clothes. Still, I got the cash so decided to go with this arrangement. Got a room, with a towel and soap. Took dinner with the couple and a shower before hiding underneath my blanket. It’s 2000+ meters high, and very cold at night. We’ll meet up again tomorrow morning to take their car to the summit.

Myawaddy

Myawaddy is a burmese border town between Myanmar and Thailand.

Myawaddy – 16Sep’05
2pm, took a motorbike taxi to the THai Myanmar border. Tourists can cross over to Myanmar and visit the town as long as they have their passport. The Myanmar immigrations will keep the passport and you have to return to Thailand by 5pm latest. I have 3 hours.



On the Thai-Myanmar Friendship Bridge, met this ‘volunteer translator’ Thong Li, who speaks very good English. He offered to take me around. Basically Myawadee the town is very different from Thailand. Streets dusty, broken sidewalks. Lots of temples. I visited 3, in depth, since the guide was there. Explained all to me. In detail. See pics. 2nd temple even had porridge at communal gathering in the temple with the people. Got introed to the head monk. Pretty much was very lucky, brought me to market and bought some stuff as well. Actually lots more happened, but spent too long now on this PC. maybe will elaborate later.
Went back cross border, Mae Sot, had dinner at Indian place, chat with this fella who was jailed trying to illegally immgrate to Malaysia…
Yawn. Sorry. Goodnite all. Tomorrow its 1st bus out to chiangmai. Just see pics for more details lah. Damn tired, already halfway down to Bangkok…

Mae Sot

Mae Sot is the main border town between Thailand and Myanmar located in the Tak province. It houses a large Burmese refugee population.


Mae Sot – 16Sep’05
Early at 5.30 am, I dropped my key at the front desk, everyones sleeping, and rushed to take the songthaew (those 2 row pickups) to Mae Sot. Its a 6 hour ride south, on hills. No coaches go down, probably no tourists too. Starting from Mae Sariang, Im getting mistaken for thai more and more. Prob they see much less foreigners down here. Flemming the danish guy went separate ways, we said bye. He’s going up to Chiang Mai then Laos. Me, I’m off to Mae Sot. Took breakfast of coffee and 2 halfboiled eggs. The two eggs were a real bad idea. In the Songthaew, which was terribly cold, because of the wind, bumpy, motion sickness and I keep feeling the 2 eggs coming up. But the trip itself, in 6 hours, passed throught the countryside, and lots of people boarded on and off. Met a lot of villagers close up that way. Reached Mae Sot at about 2pm. Got really lost trying to orientate myself. Plus this far south, no signs were in English, and even fewer spoke the language. Mostly Thais come to tour here, from Bangkok etc. And its low season. The stupid unupdated map in Lonely Planet didnt help either. After hunting for the tourist police without success, found a guesthouse which appeared on the map. Orientated myself, dumped stuff in hotel. Then set off for Myanmar. It was 2pm.

Mae Sariang

Mae Sariang is the southernmost town of the Mae Hong Son province.  To the north is Mae Hong Son, to the east is the road leading back to Chiang Mai, and to the south is to Mae Sot. West is of course Myanmar.


Mae Hong Son – 15Sep’05
I need more time. 2pm after the village visit, rushed to take bus to Mae Sariang, thats like 4 hours south. Flemming had tons of stuff/souvenirs in his pack. Mailed home at the post office. Some screw up or what, maybe they couldnt understand him, we nearly missed the 2 o clock bus. Havent eaten anything whole day except for peanuts from the morning market. Not sure if I will go back Chiangmai after this or travel more. Reached Mae Sariang in evening. Uneventful, beside border police checking for refugees. Stayed at a very cosy guesthouse by the river. Needed sleep, cos decided to go even further south to Mae Sot. This far down in Mae Sariang, number of foreigners very much less. Guesthouse even offered us 120baht ($5), instead of normal 150. We felt that we were ripping them off, we paid 140 baht each for 2 rooms.

Mae Hong Son – Long-necked

Nai Soi is a traditional village catering to tourists near the Thai-Myanmar Northwestern border. The Padaung Long-necked inhabitants are refugees fleeing from Myanmar. The villages are set to attract the tourist dollar.


Mae Hong Son – 15Sep’05
Day 5, woke up about 6.30, went down to the morning market. Local crowd. Took in the smells and sights, nice. Early at 8 oclock, set off for Longnecked Karen village. Again got a good deal, planning everything ourselves. The agency charged 1000baht/pax, we went with Flemming’s guesthouse person and got 500baht/pax, which include the 250baht village entry fee.

The longnecked village Nai Soi was primarily catered to tourists. Fled from Myanmar and settled in Thailand. We arrived like just when the villagers were setting up their handicrafts. Since we were the only 2, plus one Taiwanese chap who was on the bus last night, we had a lot of time on the village. The agency gave us one hour at the village. We spent 2.5 hours there. Talked to the villages for a bit. Took photos. Went to their school. (You have to see the photos). Learnt that their primary source of income is the tourist flow. They dont do agriculture, they depend on tourists to sustain them. A bit exploitative, to gawk at them like tourists do, but its like their way out of a poor life. The 250baht entrance fee goes to buy necessities for the families. The school was amazing. Lots of kids from nearby villages attend the school. You see really cute 4 year old kids from the tribes, long-necked, big-eared and others. Just see the photos. (Photos lost cos imagestation closed down). As we were travelling back to town, passed by 15 van-loads of tourists (not exaggerating) going to the village. Lucky us. Avoided crowd again.


Here’s an article from the NYT – http://www.nytimes.com/2001/05/20/travel/nai-soi-s-long-necked-women.html