A 2021 Travel Review

Contrary to what you may think, this is not a joke post – there was some actual travel in 2021. Every year I will do up a summary of the places I had travelled to, as an introspective look into the past year of travel and also as a way to give thanks. It is part of an annual review of my own life that I have been doing, to see what went well and what didn’t. Also a way of doing some personal target setting for travel in the coming year.

To say 2021 was a letdown is an understatement. While the beginning of 2020 rightfully had a lot of uncertainty when the pandemic hit, by the end of 2021 everyone was fatigued from all the restrictions and travel advisories to curtail the spread of variant after variant of the virus. As for me I was expecting some possible travel at the start of 2021, but as the year wore on and the outlook remained bleak, I ended up not planning even a single trip. There was a bit of light at the end of 2021 though, when the Vaccinated Travel Lanes (VTLs) opened allowing for travel without quarantines upon returning, and these VTLs were limited to certain countries deemed ‘safe’. I quickly booked a flight in December 2021 and the end result is this post.

TFP Statistics for 2021:

  • Total number of new countries and political territories visited: 3 (Denmark, Sweden, Netherlands)
  • Total number of countries and political territories where I made repeat visits: 0
  • Total number of calendar days spent travelling: 8
    • No of days of work + travel: 0
    • No of days of solo travel:0
    • No of days of travel with the missus: 8
    • No of days of family travel: 0

 

December 2021: Denmark, Sweden, Netherlands

It was a brief week of travel, based out of two cities, Copenhagen and Amsterdam. But after 668 consecutive days in Singapore, any travel is welcomed. I tried to make the most of the travel though, making day trips out of Copenhagen to the nearby cities of Helsingor and Roskilde, and also Malmo in Sweden. In Amsterdam, we day-tripped to the Hague and Delft. My choice of destinations for the trip was entirely based on whichever country was declared VTL at that time, and that I had not visited. Up till the travel date, I was crossing fingers the travel plans would not get cancelled, as the Omicron variant was causing havoc, with each day more countries were abruptly calling for restrictions, lockdowns, adding requirements for additional testing or even closing borders entirely. Fortunately, the trip went ahead.

 

Denmark: Copenhagen at the beginning of winter is a treat, especially with the Christmas light-up at Tivoli Gardens. The atmosphere at the Tivoli fairground, located in central Copenhagen, is almost fairytale-like. In the city, the main sights we visited were the royal palace of Christianborg, and the Rosenborg palace which housed a museum where the royal jewels are kept. A highlight, for me at least, was visiting the independent community of Freetown Christiania in one of Copenhagen’s districts. In 1971 some locals decided to declare ‘self-rule’ over the area, and formed a self-governing community, which continued in what is already in its 50th year. Quirky, you might even call in a micronation, and as unusual as my travel locations get in 2021.

Christmas light-up and celebrations at the Tivoli Gardens

Visiting Freetown Christiania on its 50th year!

Painted houses by the Nyhavn in Copenhagen

Outside of Copenhagen, I visited two UNESCO-listed heritage sites. The first is the Kronborg Palace in the city of Helsingor. The palace is more well-known as the setting for Shakespeare’s Hamlet. I was not so much in awe of the palace itself, but I did like its location at the northeastern-most tip of land overlooking the channel crossing and Sweden on the other shore. The second UNESCO-listed site was the Roskilde Cathedral in the city of the same name. The cathedral houses the tombs of Denmark’s past monarchs. Some of the frescoes and latticework in the chapels within the cathedrals were impressive.

The tombs of Danish monarchs housed in the Roskilde Cathedral

Kronborg Palace in Helsingor, or better known as the Hamlet castle.

 

Sweden: This was a whistle-stop day trip to the city of Malmo, a short train ride from Copenhagen via the Oresund bridge, which connects Denmark and Sweden. Fortunately there were no additional PCR / ART testing requirements to enter, so we could whizz in and out easily. There was no itinerary, so I decided to walk around Malmo’s main squares before heading into the mall, where it was warmer. This was winter, and us folks from the tropics can only take so much cold temperature in one go. Fun fact: Despite Sweden not making mask-wearing mandatory unlike Denmark, we wore ours throughout, because the mask covering actually kept the lower half of our faces warm.

A walk in downtown Malmo.

 

Netherlands: Technically I had visited Netherlands before, when I visited the overseas Dutch territory of Sint Maarten in the Caribbean back in 2019. However, this is my first time in Netherlands proper, so I will put it up as a new place visited. My highlights were not so much the cities’ sights and attractions (though the Rijksmuseum is a must visit!), but rather the more mundane things – such as hunting for food from Surinam (never tried before) and Indonesia (must try to see how authentic it is) in the Albert Cuyp Market area, and taking the ferry to get to my hotel on the NDSM wharf district, located on the other bank across from the main Amsterdam central area. Also interesting was rushing everywhere to meet the 5pm partial lockdown measures put in place to curb the spread of COVID. Shops and restaurants had to close by 5pm, with only essential services like supermarkets and public transport allowed to continue operation. So the typical day’s itinerary was to squeeze in as many activities, have an early dinner, before taking the train or tram ride back to the hotel, and stopping by the local Albert Heijn supermarket to stock up on drinks and snacks.

My first time visiting the Rijksmuseum

The view out of my hotel window, at the NSDM, an industrial wharf area converted to a creative zone.

Rijsttafel (rice table) for one,

Besides Amsterdam, which I rather liked in winter, we went on a day trip to The Hague, and the pretty city of Delft, both nearby and only about an hour away from Amsterdam by train. Delft’s picturesque canals and two churches were a delight, despite the dingy weather. The Hague is the seat of the The International Court of Justice (ICJ), and we popped by the Peace Palace where the ICJ was located.

The Peace Palace in The Hague.

Delft’s pretty little canals and the leaning Old Church

My first taste of Surinamese roti via Roopram Roti, a chain with branches in Amsterdam

That wraps up 2021. What went well was that I got to travel at all, so definitely have to be thankful for that. As for what could have been done better, not much I would say, as things were beyond my control and as much as I would have liked to have kept to my travel plans, the current situation did not allow for it. In 2022, I have cautiously made some travel plans, and I have hoping some can come to fruition. Seriously, everyone deserves a break in 2022, it has been two years.

In the meantime, stay healthy and don’t be a stranger. Say hi!

Cheers,

Red

 

 

 

p/s – This is the 10th year I am doing these annual reviews. Here are all the past posts (minus 2015’s review which I lost during the great malware attack on this blog and never bothered to rewrite).

A 2011 Travel Review

A 2012 Travel Review

2013 Travel Review

A 2014 Travel Review

A 2016 Travel Review

A 2017 Travel Review

A 2018 Travel Review

A 2019 Travel Review

A 2020 Travel Review

An Albanian Oddysey

The Albanian Riviera, the Albanian Alps, medieval castles, Ottoman mosques, Orthodox churches, Mediterranean villages, ancient Roman cities. Want more? How about beach resorts, mountain ski slopes, cities with vibrant nightlife and a captivating history? Albania has all these and at a fraction of the cost you find elsewhere in Europe, it is one of the most underrated places you can travel to.

Not many tourists go to Albania. The country’s relative anonymity as a travel destination is due to its socialist past. Albania opened up to the rest of the world only recently after decades of isolation by the communist regime that ran the country for almost half a century.

I arrived in Tirana, the capital of Albania without much expectation. It was the last leg of my trip through the Balkans, and I thought there would be little of interest to see here. How wrong I was.

Tirana

Tirana is a bustling, lively city of contrasts, displaying aspects of the country’s socialist and Ottoman past. You can find drab, grey utilitarian buildings side-by-side with patriotic murals loudly proclaiming Albanian identity and independence. There are bustling roadside open-air markets, crumbling buildings and green open spaces. The centre of the city is Skanderbeg Square, a large boulevard in the shape of a roundabout named after the 15th century Albanian national hero who fought against the Ottoman invasion. A statue of him astride a horse is found in the middle of the square, alongside the red double-headed eagle flag of Albania.

In the southern part of Tirana, just across the river, is more evidence of its communist past. A pyramid had been built in the city centre, originally as a museum to Enver Hoxha, the communist leader of Albania who ruled for 44 years. He famously declared Albania the world’s first atheist state. After the downfall of communism, the pyramid was abandoned and today is a graffiti-laden disused landmark.

Beyond the pyramid, there is an upmarket section of the city known as Blloku. Formerly this was the residential district of the elite of the communist regime, including Enver Hoxha. Until the fall of the regime in 1991, the public was not allowed entry to this area. Today however, it is a colourful section of town with trendy cafes, restaurants and shopping boutiques. I wandered around this area with two friends I met, and we had coffee in the Sky Tower Bar, a rotating restaurant on the 17th floor which allowed for panoramic 360-degree views of Tirana. Considering it was one of the fancier places to go to in town, the prices were very reasonable.

But Albania is not just the chaos and bustle of Tirana. To the north of the capital lie the Albanian Alps, part of the mountain range that runs through the Balkans. This is where one could go hiking and skiing. However, I decided to go south instead, heading for the three UNESCO listed sites in Albania. First stop, Berat.

Berat

Berat is known as the “Town of a Thousand Windows”. And it was easy to see why. As soon as my bus arrived in town, I was greeted by multi-windowed Ottoman-era houses that were piled up against the slope of a hill. For over 400 years, Albania came under the rule of the Ottoman Empire, and today, there are many Ottoman houses built in the local style dotting the Albanian countryside. However, only here in Berat were they arranged in such a visually arresting manner.

A medieval citadel caps the hilltop. What is amazing is that within the medieval citadel is a fully lived-in neighbourhood. Behind crumbling, white-washed fortress walls, there are homes fronted by cars in garages and children playing kick-ball. There are also mosques and churches, including one Orthodox church that has been converted into a museum of Christian iconography.

Gjirokastër

Along with Berat, Gjirokastër is the other major Ottoman-influenced draw in central Albania. If Berat was the ‘Town of a Thousand Windows’, then Gjirokastër is the ‘City of Stone’. The old town of Gjirokastër is located high up halfway along the slopes of a plateau. Climbing up to the town involves following steep cobblestoned pathways until you reach the stone houses of Gjirokastër. These multi-storeyed houses are constructed out of stone, and their most defining feature are the shale roofs that cover every single house, giving rise to the town’s nickname.

From the top of Gjirokastër Castle, I could see down below to the stone roofs that panned out as far as the eye can see. The castle, itself located on the plateau, is a museum with remains of WWII cannons, tanks and even a plane. Within the castle, I wandered around the ramparts, abandoned rooms and marvelled at the still intact clock tower. Every five years, Gjirokastër Castle hosts the Albanian Folklore Festival, where traditional Albanian folk singing and dancing takes place. The next festival is scheduled for 2014.

Sarandë

The city of Sarandë sits on the southern coastline of Albania, known as the Albanian Riviera. With a mediterranean climate, numerous beaches and cheap seafood, it is definitely a place to relax on a beach holiday.

The highlight of Sarandë for me however is the nearby ancient Greek and Roman ruins of Butrint. Situated on an island linked to the mainland by a peninsula, the ruins of Butrint comprise all the structures normally found in a Roman city: a Roman theatre, an agora, a basilica, Roman baths and residential homes. Additionally, there were also later structures like Venetian defence towers, built to defend against Ottoman incursions. All these were within the Butrint National Park, a protected wetlands area. It was surreal walking around the ruins by myself. In the trees around me I could hear wild birds. I would walk along a path through the forest, and when the trees parted before me there would be more ruins. To me, it was like walking through the wetlands in Pulau Ubin’s Chek Jawa and suddenly seeing old Roman buildings.

I only managed six days in Albania, which is not enough to see everything the country has to offer. With so many things to see and do, tourists are slowly beginning to discover this underrated gem of a country. It is only a matter of time until Albania loses its ‘under the radar’ status, opening its doors to independent travellers and holidaymakers alike.

GETTING THERE

Turkish Airlines, Lufthansa, and British Airways offer flights (with one stopover) from Singapore to Tirana. By land, there are buses from neighbouring Athens and Thessaloniki in Greece. By sea, ferries from the Greek island of Corfu go to Sarandë.

TRAVELLER’S TIPS

■  Albania is visa free for Singaporeans for up to 90 days. If travelling in the region, it is a good idea to include nearby Kosovo and Macedonia in your itinerary. Both countries have significant ethnic Albanian populations and would allow you to better understand the culture and history of the region.

■  The currency is the Albanian lekë. Outside the country it is difficult to exchange your lekë so spend your remaining money before you leave.

■  Visit Ksamil village, located between Sarandë and Butrint for clear blue beaches and chance to swim from island to island.