This morning went out really early for 2 dives. One to the Canyon and the second to the infamous dive site the Blue Hole. The journey there, 6 km north out of Dahab, passes by exciting terrain. The landscape is desolate yet beautiful. Our pickup cuts through the road. On the right side, is the great expanse of the Red Sea. On the left jagged mountains flank the desert road. Every few minutes, we will pass a train of camels, with their Bedouin owners, going down the coast. I regret not bringing my camera along for the dive…missed a lot of great landscape shots during the ride. Let’s see if I can any pics from the guys on my dive, will upload if so.
Dive prep. All shore dives, and there no beach, you jump in, it’s the reef!
The first dive was around 30m deep, into the Canyon. Lionfish, a scorpionfish and the highlight was cleaner wrasse cleaning out my mouth after i took out my regulator. Ticklish. The second dive was into the Blue Hole. I only did 14m, though this spot is Dahab’s most famouse dive spot, because it is an 80m deep hole, with an opening at 65m deep into the ocean. There have been casualties with deep divers who try to exit the 65m opening and either got lost, disoriented or get extreme narcossis.
Donkeys in Siwa, now camels in Dahab
Finished the dive just in time for lunch. Amazingly, after factoring in 160 SGD for my dives over the past couple days, i am still within budget overall. Also, the price for Open Water is 200 USD here, based on what the dormmates tell me.
I am meeting all sorts of characters here. People working in UN in Congo, students on gap year, farmers. Today I’m hanging out with Simon from Hong Kong, who joined my dorm today. Had dinner together (25 EGP) and walked down from Masbat to Mashraba area. Basically it has been very much a traveler’s meeting point, so many nationalities in one location.
One more night here, then I leave tomorrow night. Cannot get too comfortable with the laid-backness of Dahab. I fear I may just cancel the rest of the itinerary and just stay here. In the meantime, I’m going to sleep in tomorrow morning. Hahaha.
4rd Dec, 2130hrs, 7Heaven Dorms, Dahab Firstly, i will start by complaining about the terrible internet connection here. For which I paid 15 EGP (for 24hrs). It is very slow when it does decide to work. So i doubt I will even get this posted tonight.
Took the all-nighter from Cairo to Dahab (90 EGP, 1230am, 9 hrs). This time I was prepared and armed with my overnight bus cold weather gear. Found the Turgoman Garage (the old place now replaced by a spanking new mall, with bus station underneath) with much difficulty.
Delightful – Dahab beachfront
Reached Dahab at 9am, diving mecca, Koh Samui of Egypt, are amongst it’s many accolades. It was still empty in the morning, but telltale signs abound that Dahab beach is catered for tourists. Walked up and down for a decent place to stay, preferably with wifi. =). And promptly found 7Heaven, with it’s adjoining Dives Down Under outfit. Took a bed in the dorm (20EGP) and signed up for 24hrs wireless (15 EGP, which I probably will not renew thereafter). The crowd there are like more than 50% Asians. Apparently, Dahab is on all the Japanese and South Korean versions of LP travel guidebooks and they recommend 7Heaven Hotel/Camp.
Dumped by bag in the dorm. I am tired from the overnight travel. Then went to check out the dive prices. It was quite affordable really, with 30 to 40 USD per dive (120 for a 4 dives package and cheaper as you do more) with full gear included. I had to go for a refresher dive (40 USD), which is probably a good idea, since I have never dived with two wetsuits, 11kg on my weightbelt, and in very salty water. All dives are shore dives. Some lionfish, pipefish, goatfish. Nothing spectacular so far, maybe I have been too spoilt by Indonesian waters. Too bad I did not bring my underwater camera casing, but it’s just not worth the hassle, especially if I’m only diving this once.
The entire scene at the dive shop seems like a United Nation of sorts. Egyptian, Japanese, Hong Kongers, Europeans, and even one other Singaporean. I met Sean who was in Egypt for 16 days, last two days now. Feels good to switch to Singlish =). Had dinner at Napoleon Place just outside (25 EGP) with him. He’s leaving on the night bus.
Decadence (& this cool Chinese guy works in Congo!)
Tomorrow I will do a couple of dives. Day after I intend to just relax. Like i said, I need to slow things down, and Dahab seems like the perfect place to do so. For once, I am sitting around in t-shirt and shorts, but not shiver, albeit it was still cold temp, but at least there was some sun.
3rd Dec, 2000hrs, New Palace Hotel, Downtown Cairo I haven’t gotten out of bed all evening, having free wifi in your hotel is bad. It is keeping me from exploring Cairo. Started the day in the overnight bus from Siwa to Cairo. There was a draft under the bus and everyone was cold. During a rest stop, I geared up in my balaclava, thick industrial gloves and hid inside my sleeping bag. Slept like a log after.
Reached Cairo early morning 8am, got a place recommended by Eba, the New Palace Hotel. Free wifi was the clincher. Unloaded and off I went to try the Cairo metro to Doqqi district (1 EGP). The Singapore embassy there is where I will request for the Letter of Introduction that’s needed to apply for a Sudanese visa. After several rounds of wandering the area (omar adnan sadiqi street, perpendicular to Babel Street), and finding the Chad and Mozambique embassies along the way, ia finally found Singapore. It was a simple affair, give your passport over and voila, in 10 minutes. No fees either. And to answer the question “Why not get the LoI in Singapore before you leave?” the answer is clear: The whole thing was in arabic. =)
the efficient metro system
More or less, got my orientation in Cairo downtown. Tried taking the metro, found the bus terminal. All needed when i’m back here next week with limited time. On the way back, had my first taste of kushairi, a mish mash of rice, spaghetti and macaroni soaked in tomato based sauce, shallots and beans (large 3 EGP). I don’t think my stomache agrees with the mix. But it is cheap and filling. Came back into the hotel, got connected enough to even watch last week’s episode of Survivor.
After speaking to the hostel guys, I decided to make a move to Dahab tonight. Yes i know it’s crazy, another consecutive night of overland bus travel. I tell myself I’ll slow things down and just settle in Dahab for a couple of days. Leaving on the 0030hrs train later.
This is a quick entry before I take the 8pm bus out from Siwa to Cairo (60 EGP, 4 other buses run daily to Alex via Matrouh). Today morning at 7am went to the rooftop, which gives an excellent view of the town; it is one of the highest around the town centre. Caught the sunrise, came down before I became a frozen lollipop. The most obvious thing to go towards was the shali, a 13th century fortress. Walked around town trying to find the entrance. Got in and summited, but at the wrong summit of the fort. Still the view was great. Came back to town, had a turkish cofee. Then around 11am, found Eba who had gone out on a rented bicycle. I rented one myself (10 EGP) and we went towards the local sights. No map, but i managed to take a photo of the area at the tourist office. Unfortunately, got our bearings wrong. Instead, we just keep cycling south until we reached the edge of the desert. Everywhere in front of us were dunes. So, at 12pm, we sat down at the edge of the desert, took off our sandals / slippers and talked / exchanged travel tales. It sounds crazy, but the weather was hot, dry yet cool. Left after about 45 minutes. My lips are chafed.
After that, went back, caught the 3 sights we intended to see before we got lost (Cleopatra’s Bath, Umm Ubeyda temple ruins, Temple of the Oracle) before cycling back into town. I decided to leave tonight for Cairo at the 8pm bus, to get an extra day. Changed plans a bit, will go straight to Dahab instead after a night in Cairo. This is because Cairo is where I’m supposed to do all the visa admin stuff. So reaching there on the weekend (fri and sat is the weekend here) is a bad idea. I’ll see how it goes, will probably find a place to chuck my bag before going embassy hunting.
Eba’s headed to Alex then Port Said. Gonna bid farewell to him later. His bus leaves at 10pm. Nice guy. I really got tons of info from him about Cairo, Luxor, Aswan etc.
As nua as I am tonight, I’d better write this before I go to bed. I am in Siwah oasis, located near the western end of Egypt, a nine hour bus ride from Alex. At the El Maukaf El Gedid station (which is in Moharrem Bey area, and replaces the existing one at the15th of May bus station (LP not updated). Buses depart to Siwah (West and Middle Delta Bus Co, 35 EGP, 9 hrs) at 8.30am, 11am, 2pm and 10pm.
Out of Alexandria, the terrain changes dramatically. We go east along the shoreline, so on one wide I can see the Mediterranean, on the other side, desert. After a halfway point stop at Marsa Matrouh, we go inland and its all desert. The locals are different too, the local berber population in the distinct garb are more obvious the further we go towards Siwah. There was one interesting stop, at Cafe Choop Amoo Said (sic). It is located by the roadside, a single building in the middle of nowhere. I looked around, beside the cofee shop, our bus, an outhouse and a surau, there was nothing else out there, just desert. Took some fantastic shots, and off we go.
Reached Siwa in the evening, about 1730hrs. Saw more and more trees as we approached. Everything is sand brown; the buildings, the sand, more sand, the fort, and more sand. The main highlight of the place is the 13th century fort (shali) setting itself as the background of the main square of the town. The entire place feels so laid back. Donkey carts with “Taxi 4×4. Welcome to Siwa” written, desert trekking and tour companies, cheap eateries (Abdoo’s is great). Adding Siwah to my list of places to just chill and watch the world go, (right now that list includes Pai and Vang Vieng, pre-commercialisation). There’s quite a bit of independent tourists around. Met an Eba at my hotel (the hotel is basic, clean and 20 EGP!) He’s Japanese and a frequent solo traveler. Egypt is his last leg having come from Turkey, Syria, Lebanon and Israel. I’ll probably do one of those packages with him tomorrow provided I can find him. After dinner together i forgot to ask for his room, no way to contact him now.
I’m going to wake up early to catch the sunrise on the lovely rooftop. Night.
Despite the rather drab sounding name, Clement’ Hotel (60EGP) located just a few doors from the Brazilian Coffee Store along Sharia Saad Zagloul is a neat place with large clean rooms. Mine is a room with 3 beds! It overlooks the street below and I can see the nightlife plus all the honking as all the cars are stuck in a jam for what must be at least an hour. Closing the window helps lots. The hotel doesn’t appear in LP, but I’m recommending it, for the price, cleanliness and proximity to everything. The funky lift looks like a scenario right out Silent Hill, the console horror game.
Around 12pm today, made my way south towards the Roman Amphitheatre (around 750m from Midan Raml). 20 EGP entry fee –> it’s the only one in Egypt. Ruins and some structures dug out from the sea. Lots of excavation ongoing in Alexandria, especially near the Fort Qaitbey area (the site of the old 7th wonder of the world: the Pharaos Lighthouse).
Next headed southwest in a general direction (no map now). Got a bit lost but was it was fine, soaked in the sights and sounds of local residential areas. Finally saw the unmistakable named pillar, and bounded towards it. The Pompey’s Pillar (20 EGP, ask for Amud El-Sawari as the locals know it by that name) was actually built back then as a gift to someone for something (forgive my ignorance: yes i know, I’m bad at this). It’s about 26 metres high in total, and the surrounds used to hold temples to Isis, Heposis and one other Greco-Egyptian god.
The next sight was the catacombs, the security guard said walk 5 minutes and you’ll reach it, but i must have made a wrong turn somewhere, for i reached a school, and backlanes of the local neighbourhood district. I retraced my steps, had a breather, ordered my leavened bread with meat from one of the shops. I sat there waiting for my order, unable to convince them that i’m from Singapore, so i had to indulge them with my best Jackie Chan moves. Left the place (everyone there was my friend now haha). And saw some 3 tour buses. Trailed them for some 5 minutes before I reached the Kom El Shokafa Catacombs. The tourists behind the bus’ glass windows snapped pictures as the bus passed along the streets. I’m luckier, I get to interact more. =) . The Kom El Shokafa Catacombs (35 EGP, no cameras allowed) is as described, a 3 storeyed deep series of tunnels plus a macabre underground funeral dining room. Did not really enjoy it, no thanks to the fact that i was squeezing in the place with 3 busloads of Japanese, French and Spanish package tourists, with their guides rattling on in 3 languages in one echoey chamber.
Got some local guy to drive me back home on his beaten car for 15 EGP since my sense of direction was totally messed up by that point. Took a break before going off again to Zanqet Al-Settat or “the woman’s squeeze”. Got the translation and recommendation to go to this souq from the excellent Al-Ahram Weekly. The paper went to town with the Egypt vs Algeria violence during the World Cup Playoff (Egypt lost 1-0, they played in Khartoum, Sudan and violence erupted before, during and after the match against the Egyptians. Ok. Back to the souq, it is so named due to the narrow 2-3m wide warren of alleyways. To get there, from the corniche, at the point where the shrine to the Unknown Soldier is, go inland towards Midan Arab. When you reach Midan Manshiyya, turn right into France Street. Alleys leading to left from this street all lead into the souq (LP labels it Souq). There was everything from clothes to toys to jewellery. I lasted all of 15 minutes in there…I have been walking all daya and I figured if i don’t get out then, I’ll be lost inside for the next few hours. That being said, I took another half hour to find my way out; i am thankful for my compass. Then went to the only wifi joint i saw over the last two days, posted yesterday’s entry over oily but tasty onion rings and an ice mocha (26 EGP). Tomorrow is a busy traveling day –> decided to travel by day to Siwa.
Arrived at Alexandria (Al-Iskandaria) International Airport at 130am. Took forever for everyone to clear customs, collected my bag.Almost all the passengers were Egyptians returning home. Cab too overpriced (I never fail to get charged tourist prices at the first cab on arrival at a location) so decided to wait till morning outside the airport. 16 degrees celsius, brrrr…I am in my windbreaker shivering. The best part is I didn’t bring along any shoes for this trip. Will need to buy a pair eventually, especially before Ethiopia (or Sinai even). There were a few others sitting around. A Michelle Tan from Sichuan, China (but working in Shenzhen) came over to talk. Amazingly my limited Mandarin got handy here to break the ice. She’s with medical sales and jets around to show customers the products. And before hitting Alexandria, she came from Athens, then somewhere in Germany to meet her customers. She’s headed towards the Sheraton Montazah but figured a lone girl carrying 3 bags (1is a chunky suitcase containing her medical device!) at 2am in the middle of nowhere isnt the best situation to be in. It ended up with me taking the cab to her hotel (60 EP) which is like, really out of the way, before I dropped off (50 EP, after my first succesful bargain) at Midan Ramla. Still tourist price =(. Actually, Michelle, who’s company paid for a room with double beds, offered to put me up for the night. Tempting, I get to stay in a 4 star hotel, but I declined, since i would then be far away from the sights and action.
At Midan Ramla at 6am, looking for a place to stay. Union hotel was full. So were the next two budget hotels in the Lonely Planet. I walked up and down the area, panicking a bit. It is high season, and tourists (locals & foreigners) fill up the rooms. The next 3 I could find were full too. I started to regret not taking up Michelle’s offer. And I was frigging tired. Only on the 7th, the Nile Excelsior Hotel had rooms to let. And it is here now I’m writing this. At 100 EP, it is very pricey (1SGD is around 4 EP). But the room has all the amenities I might need (and some I don’t). Clean bed, fan, TV (Rush Hour II playing now), fridge, private bathroom. Later in the day, I made a reservation at another place I found, basic and minus fridge and TV, but also 60EP only. Will move there tomorrow =). And so, after taking a quick shower, at 8.30am in the morning, I had my first proper sleep on a bed.
1pm today, got peckish, went out to find some food and walk around the town. Alexandria is a fantastic waterfront city. Each shot I take would make a postcard shot. No one’s really bothering me as I walk around and take pics. I don’t think in Cairo it would be this easy to get around. Explored the Midan Ramla area, all the way down to the Biblioteque Alexandrina, the library (very artistic architecture with statues & exhibits around) inspired by the old Alexandria library which was a major centre of learning in the old world. On the walls of this library (the new one!) are characters from every written language known to man. Wandered around somemore, through parks. Here’s something I noticed. Alexandrian boys don’t walk, they swagger. In packs. Brash young men with chests puffed out and flailing hands as they make their point to the shop owner, cab driver etc. Oh yes, it is still cool even in the day. Walking around without a decent windbreaker would be suicidal.
In the evening had dinner at El-Shark, a restaurant just outside my hotel. Egypt would be a meat eater’s paradise. Had rice bologna and chicken liver soup! There are numerous cheap little shops, which I would no doubt order from had I not so much trouble trying to read the menus. The system is you order, pay up at the cashier, who gives you a receipt. Use that receipt to redeem your order. I really need to pick up some Egyptian. Hello and thank you is not enough to get by. After dinner, the locals sit around at the shops drinking tea, and watching tv there (local football match was showing) and some were on sheesha.
Tomorrow I have all day in Alex. Edit: today (30th Nov) went to the souq and got lost, the roman amphitheatre, catacombs of al-shuqufa, pompey’s pillar. will post next time round =P
