A 2018 Travel Review

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    The Furious Panda

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So it’s that time of the year again, when I look back at past travels and the highlights of the previous year. It has been an ongoing tradition since 2011, and despite being pretty inactive here on the blog, the annual travel review has always been a constant. You can look back on previous reviews here.

I am thankful for the good health, opportunities and serendipitous moments that have allowed me to travel to so many places in 2018, and hopefully many more to come. I realised that there are now pretty much three types of travel for me – personal/work travel, travel with the wife, and family travel with the wife and two toddlers. The destination is very much dependent on which type of travel I am doing. 2018 has been an eventful year of traveling, with a total of 8 new countries and political territories visited, and a decent number of previously visited places as well.

Here are the stats:

  • Total number of new countries and political territories visited: 8
  • Total number of countries and political territories where I made repeat visits: 6
  • Total number of calendar days spent travelling: 64
  • No of days of work + travel: 22
  • No of days of solo travel: 22
  • No of days of travel with the missus: 16
  • No of days of family travel: 4

And back at the start of the year, I posted the below. It seems that I managed all the destinations minus the Philippines, and added on a few more!

Let’s look through how The Furious Panda did in 2018.

January – South Korea

A work trip set me off for my second ever visit to South Korea, this time in the middle of winter. I travelled to Ulsan, which is right at the south-eastern end of the Korean peninsula, just above more well-known Busan. Thankfully Ulsan is a little warmer than Seoul. On the train back to Incheon for the flight out, I could see Seoul covered in snow. Ulsan is famous for its whales and dolphins, but I did not get to see much as I mainly kept to the urban areas.

1 Central Ulsan is not as crowded as I had expected it to be.

February – Eritrea, Bahrain, UAE

Eritrea

The prize trip this year was a tour to Eritrea. Way back in 2010, I travelled around Eastern Africa and the Horn, visiting all the countries in that region except one. Eritrea. This was despite multiple attempts at trying to get a visa in Khartoum, Sudan. I had invested myself in the history of the region, and told myself that one day I will be back to visit Eritrea. Voila! That time is February 2018. I took no chances and went with my favourite tour provider. Eritrea is one of the African continent’s most isolated and least visited countries. They are not big on friendly relations with their neighbours. They have mandatory national service that lasts way too long, and they rank second to bottom on the Press Freedom Index (just above North Korea). In fact, they are known as the North Korea of Africa. There has been recent developments in the latter half of 2018, with the thawing of relations with neighbouring Ethiopia, so travel to Eritrea might soon be easier.

The country itself is a hidden gem. The capital Asmara (Red: how can you not fall in love with a capital city with a name like Asmara?) is an Italian modernist architectural heaven. In the 1930s, the best young Italian architects descended upon the capital of their former colony, and proceeded to create an Italy in Africa. Unchecked and unbridled, radical designs and modernist buildings popped up all over Asmara. When Italy went to war in World War II however, everything was left behind, and forgotten. Decades later, as Eritrea struggled for independence from their colonial powers, and neighbours, Asmara was lucky not to get bombed or damaged during multiple wars.

The rest of the country is no slouch either. There are camel markets in Keren, the laid-back coastal city of Massawa is crumbling but not without its charms. I also went island hopping in the Dahlak Archipelago, and went searching for ancient petroglyphs in Qohaito.

2The Tamoil modernist garage and service station in Asmara, Eritrea.

3The Cinema Impero is one of many cinemas to be found in the city of Asmara.

Outside of Asmara, I also visited other Eritrean cities: the coastal city of Massawa, the highland town of Keren, ruins of Qohaito and took a boat out to the Dahlak Archipelago.

4 Old Massawa is a glorious decaying city with bombed out buildings that never did recover from previous battles fought by rebels and the government at the time.

5 The crowded market in Keren where locals from neighbouring villages come out to trade.

6 A trek to the ancient petroglyphs at Qohaito, with a scenic drop below. Gulp!

Bahrain

I made a brief excursion on the way home from Eritrea, thanks to a fifth freedom flight from Dubai to Bahrain on Cathay Pacific. I made full use of the two days and explored the UNESCO listed Bahrain Fort, the Museum of Ancient Quran Manuscripts and Bahrain’s excellent National Museum. Most of the time though I spent on Muharraq, just to the east of the capital Manama. Muharraq is ISESCO’s 2018 Islamic Capital of Culture (Arab) and there were some events ongoing near the Arad Fort.

7 Qalat e-Bahrain. The magnificent ruins of the Bahrain Fort

UAE

Each time I am in Dubai for a stopover en route or return from somewhere else, I would try to visit a different part of Dubai. This time round I ended up in the gigantic maze-like Ibn Battuta Mall. There is even a mini museum in the mall, and a cheesy display of the travel routes taken by the famed 14th century explorer (who incidentally is one of my travel heroes). I walked around the various themed sections of the mall, and decided to leave before I got completely lost.

8 Shopping galore at the Ibn Battuta Mall in Dubai

March – Tianjin, Guam, Saipan

Tianjin, China

A work trip brings me to my second visit to Tianjin. The first time I was here was in 2013, at the end of a year travelling solo with my backpack, waiting to take the flight home from Tianjin’s airport. This time round, I had more time to wander around the city area, visiting the historic Wudadao district.

9 The pretty European District in Tianjin.

Saipan, CNMI

This came about when I bought a cheap flight ticket from Hong Kong to Saipan. It was a trip of many firsts: My first visit to a Pacific island, first visit to austronesia, my first visit to US (not USA proper though). I rented a car (right-hand drive!) and went up and down the island searching for WWII sites. For the WWII history aficionado, Saipan is a delight. It was also Palm Sunday, so I watched the local Chamorro People going to church.

10 The Last Command Post in Saipan was where the Japanese made their last stand during WWII.

11 Local families making their way for service during Palm Sunday.

Guam

I took the short but expensive hop from Saipan to Guam. In contrast to Saipan, I spent most of my time here shopping at the outlet shops. I took the Red Guahan Shuttle and stopped by the malls and shopping stretches – picking out clothes and snacks for the people back home.

12 The Guam shuttle that goes from point to point along the busy shopping and tourist stretch.

June – Batam, Changchun

Batam was my family trip with the two girls this year. Just over the weekend, but a good trip nevertheless.

Changchun, China

I went to Changchun for a work trip in nearby Siping. Usually my work trips are pretty packed and I won’t have time to really sightsee, but somehow this time round I managed to visit the Ye He Ancient Manchu city. I would have been thoroughly educated on how the ancient Manchu people used to live, had I been able to understand a word of what the speed-talking Chinese-speaking guide was saying.

13 At the entrance to the Yehe Manchu Ancient City, more known to locals than foreigners.

August – Bali, East Timor, Hong Kong, Huizhou

Bali, Indonesia

En route to East Timor, I had a night in Denpasar, Bali. Instead of taking the horrendously expensive direct flight from Singapore to Dili, I had a stopover in Bali. Second time in Bali, the first was an interesting experience over Nyepi “the Day of Silence” way back in 2009. This time round, I just walked along Kuta Beach’s main drag and ate…and ate. And ate.

14 Death-defying workers cleaning the structures at Bali’s international airport.

Dili, East Timor

I had intended to travel further out of Dili, but with only 5 days, the logistics of it was not possible, especially without my own transport. Instead I ended up going for a couple of dives in the waters off Dili. I met some fellas at the place I was staying at, and ended up going around town with them. It was nice to meet other travellers and exchange stories and travel together. Nowadays, my trips are too rushed and I try to cram in as much as possible, leaving little time for interaction with other travellers. We went to see the main sights like Dili’s own Cristo Rei and the Pope John Paul statue at the other end of Dili. I went all over the city on the public mikrolets, and by the fifth day, I knew all the routes of each numbered mikrolet!

15 The figure of Kristo Rei overlooks local children playing by the beach on the outskirts of Dili.

16 The Santa Cruz memorial is in remembrance of the massacre where the shooting of at least 250 East Timorese pro-independence took place in 1991.

17 A Dili mikrolet. Almost similar to the Indonesian versions, but with different images.

Huizhou, China

I was in China again for work, and returned back to Hong Kong, via the Luohu (Lo Wu) crossing at Shenzhen. It was my first time taking this crossing on public transport, and an interesting experience. There were no delays and very straightforward. Of course, for those unfamiliar the crowds and numerous signs in multiple languages can be overwhelming. Just follow where everyone goes, my advice.

18 Making my way to Hong Kong at the Lo Wu crossing.

Hong Kong

In Hong Kong, I did all the touristy things, with the half-day I had there. Despite this being at least my third visit here, it was the first time I was taking the Peak Tram up Victoria Peak. Checked off my list! Additionally, I visited the interesting and newly-opened Tai Kwun Museum, set on the grounds of the former police headquarters.

19 The Peak Tram was empty in the early morning, but quickly got packed as more and more people arrived.

20 One of the buildings making up the Tai Kwun Complex, the old police headquarters in Hong Kong’s Central district.

Sep – Shanghai, Ho Chi Minh

Shanghai, China

I was in Shanghai for work, and made the most of it with my first time taking the Magelev train. I also had my second visit to the Shanghai Museum, and set about educating myself on China’s history and culture as I looked at the artefacts. People (and cat) watching at the Starbucks outside People’s Park was also my highlight of that morning.

21 Cat watching at a Shanghai Starbucks in the city centre.

22 Looking down at visitors to the Shanghai Museum.

Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

It seems not much has changed since I last travelled here in 2011. The Ben Thanh market is still as crowded as ever, the Chu Chi tunnels tour is exactly the same. There were some new developments though. Construction work going on around Ben Thanh, Grab riders and Gojeks newly launched Go Viet ride service, and tourists from a host of other neighbouring South East Asian countries.

23 The easy way to get around when you are in Ho Chi Minh City. Whip out the app and call for a bike ride.

24 One of the most impressive buildings in HCM is the post office.

25 The obligatory pose in the hole at Cu Chi Tunnels.

Oct – Dusseldorf, Las Palmas

At the end of October, I made a trip to Morocco, by way of the Canary Islands, and a stop at Dusseldorf.

Dusseldorf, Germany

A whirlwind stopover in Dusseldorf where I walked along the Old Town, checked out the morning market and had brunch. We were way underdressed for the 0 degrees Celsius temperature, and had to grab a taxi because the intercity train going back to the airport was delayed.

26 Came across this interesting store in Dusseldorf. Yes, you have reached your destination. This is that store I was telling you about!

Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, Spain

It was a fortuitous trip planning and flight schedules that brought me to the Canary Islands. More a beach holiday destination for European tourists, there are nevertheless plenty to see in Gran Canaria. There is also a very laid back vibe to the city, with restaurants and international cuisines aplenty.

27 The vegetation in Las Palmas is definitely different from what I find in mainland Europe.

28 Las Palmas de Gran Canaria. A beachgoer’s heaven, but with the November weather and the wind, it gets a little too chilly to go swimming.

Nov – Western Sahara, Morocco

Laayoune, Western Sahara

Depending on who you ask, Western Sahara is either a country or an autonomous province of Morocco. This is my ninth in a list of ten “unrecognized countries” that I am trying to visit. I only visited Laayoune, which is under Moroccan control, so there are hardly any signs or presence of the Sahrawi Republic. Instead, the Moroccan flag flies everywhere. The noticeable difference in this area and other parts of Morocco is probably in the way the people dress; the colourful full-length melhfa worn here is very distinctive.

29 Watching the world go by in downtown Laayoune (from a very modern standalone McDonald’s outlet)

30 Walking the markets around Laayoune. Very different from the souks and markets of Marrakech or Fes.

Morocco

I visited several of the main tourist cities: Marrakesh, Fes, Meknes, Essaouira, Rabat and Casablanca. Additionally, I made visits to the Roman ruins of Volubilis. Very much touch-and-go visiting all the cities, but with the limited number of travel days I have, cramming as much as possible in one long day is the norm.

31 The quintessential Moroccan experience is walking around Marrakech’s Djemaa el Fna.

32 Essaouira with its charming sea port is my favourite Moroccan city during my travels there.

33 The sprawling Roman ruins of Volubilis was much much larger than I had expected.

And that’s it. On the whole a very productive 2018 considering work and family commitments. Now 2019 is going to be a great year, with so much travel planning already done. There are plans for visits to island nations (lots of them), completing my last unrecognized country and a few other bucket lists – hopefully everything works out!

34 Last photo. Don’t be fooled by the blue walls, this is not Chefchaouen (a visit for another time). Instead this is in the underrated capital Rabat.

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